Enchanted River of Hinatuan

Looking at the pictures of Enchanted River in countless Internet sites, one may scream Photoshopped! But such is the essence of Hinatuan’s most famous tourist spot: it’s too magical to be natural.

Cambatong, where Enchanted River is located, is steeped in oral tradition. And the lore of how the river got its mystical tint is not hard to believe. For who else could have created this bewitching palette of colors but the ethereal beings endowed with the powers of magic and enchantment? Legend has it that one firefly-lit night fairies floated above the river while elves watched from cliffs and banks. With their wands the fairies stirred the water, toyed with sapphire and jade, and made the tones fade and meld to achieve a shade of bluish green that now paints the bed of Enchanted River.

About 12 kilometers from highway junction, Enchanted River straddles the boundary of Talisay and Cambatong in Hinatuan, Surigao del Sur. Though some portions of the well-maintained dirt road are undulating, they don’t make the ride as bumpy and dusty like some tourists blogged it to be.

What lends credence to the name Enchanted River are these: fishermen swearing to seeing various fish but couldn’t catch any no matter how they tried--not by hand, spear, or net; fishwives laying their fish traps at dusk only to find them hanging on a branch the day after; a foreigner plunging into the visible riverbed and finding it unfathomable; a father and son seeing two long-haired, alabaster-skinned women bathing under a plump moon then vanishing in a swirl of fireflies; boatmen gaping at sunken boulders of twisted images that were there one day and gone the next. Also, there’s a cave farther away, just before the river flows out to Hinatuan Bay that faces the Pacific Ocean. Accessible by foot during low tide, it showcases limestone naturally carved as furniture sets and positioned as though Neptune were hosting a party for underwater denizens.

An added attraction when visiting Enchanted River happens at noon when the bell is rung and bathers are requested to get out of water for about an hour. As Hinatuan Hymn begins to play, groups of fish come out from nowhere like on cue and feed on food scraps the caretaker and tourists throw into the water. This feeding frenzy makes spinning tails and scales catch light, turning the natural pool into a liquid canvas of the magical and the fabulous.

Enchanted River’s old name was Libwak. It was the Father of Tourism himself, Modesto Farolan, who gave it its present name through a poem entitled “Rio Encantado”. (The same had been set to music by Francisco Rio.) Then pre-war manager of the Madrigal-owned Port Lamon Lumber Company that exported round timber, Farolan wrote it for Geminia, a local lass that was his inamorata. The poem is a romantic evocation of Enchanted River as an unspoiled, untouched, and undiscovered trysting cocoon for lovers. It talks of “crystalline stream flowing from hidden spring,” “rocky brims ‘mongst vines,” “orchids and ferns,” “canopy of rich green mirrored in water tinted blue,” and “purple gold lined with gems.”

Farolan’s Enchanted River may have changed over time but it enthralls just the same. While the turquoise riverbed remains unchanging beneath cool waters that sparkle like quicksilver, the environs have given way to some structures that others may find incongruous with the thematic concept of nature. Where cliffs used to be, the Local Government of Hinatuan has built concrete staircases to make it easy for tourists to bathe and swim. Few meters away from the bank that overlooks the river are some cottages that tourists can rent for P100. A wooden foot bridge on stilts leads to the terminal of outrigger boats that ferry tourists to the nearby Vanishing Island and beach resort for P150 an hour. For non-swimmers, there’s a kiddie and adult pool. Stalls offering various seafood at reasonable prices operate outside the cordoned area, just across the main gate.

Lifeguards are employed for safety precautions and life jackets are rented out at P100 each for whole day’s use. An entrance fee of P20 is collected.

Be forewarned: parking is difficult and staying overnight is not allowed.

Swimming in Enchanted River is like swimming in a Monet painting. And what makes it more bewitching is the element of dread attached to its stunning visuals. But for the brave-hearted, it’s plunging into the abyss that makes Enchanted River a surreal experience. And one wouldn’t know the feeling until he gives it a try!

(Note: this blogpost had been published by the Philippine Daily Inquirer on 29 September 2012. Here's the link: http://newsinfo.inquirer.net/279714/nature-spins-magic-in-enchanted-river )